1996 SPRING TERRESTRIAL SWAP
Photo's and scaning compliments of Alan FISH
BLACK BEETLE PATTERN
BEETLE PLUS
BLUE FOAM DAMSEL
CINNAMON FLYING ANT (pic. not available)
ORIENTAL CROWE BEETLE
GRASSHOPPER
JUNE BUG
LETORT CRICKET
GEEHI BEETLE
RED TAG
COFFEE BEAN BEETLE
BLACK FOAM ANT
Black Beetle
hook:Mustad 94840 #10-20 (these #12)
thread:black
shellback:black deer hair or goose quill
hackle:black palmered and trimmed
body:peacock herl(4 strands) or black fur
after tieing in the thread tie in the deer hair with the butts pointing
towards the hook eye.then tie in the hackle by the tip,tie in the
peacock herl and wrap forward to form the body tie off and trim
the extra.then palmer the hackle and tie off at the head then trim
it all off from the top and sides leaving hackle only on the bottom,
then trim the bottom hackle to the length of the hook gap.then fold
over the deer hair to form the shellback tie off and trim off extra.then
wrap a head with the thread ,then whip finnish.when applying the
head cement to the thread I also apply it to the shellback for durability.
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Beetle Plus
Hook; TMC 100 Daiichi 1180, Mustad AC94840,14-22
THREAD; same as body
BODY; Black foam strip (also brown)
HEAD: same as body
TYING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Thread from eye into bend and back to above point of hook.
2. Tie in foam back to previous thread point (bend of hook).
3. Run thread back to just behind eye.
4. Fold foam over to tie down point (just behind eye).
5. Take a few turns of thread under foam behind eye and return thread to #4.
6. Cut foam to form head ( straight across & clip the sides).
7. Whip finish.
8. Place colored adhesive dot on back so you can see it in water, or use fabric paint.
Simple, but oh, so effective!
Aaron Hirschhorn
afhirsch@aol.Com.
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Blue Foam Damsel
HOOK; Mustad 94833 3xf dry or 94845 barbless*
( * used for these ) #12-10
Thread; Black 6/0 Flymaster plus
Body; 2mm fly foam trimmed to 1/6" square and 1"long.
( 1" pieces of blue "live foam" cylinders may be subitiued but are more expensive)
Hackle; dry fly quality white/cream saddle wrapped about 8-10 times.
Tie in and finish head .
Daniel D Williams
ddwriter@pbmo.net
This pattern is both simple and effective
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cinnamon flying ant
There is no picture available,The pattern was submited but the flies were mismailed.
Hook: Mustad 94840 #16 or #18
Thread: Brown
Dubbing: Any rust/cinnamon colored fur (rabbit, squirrel, etc.)
Wings: Dark dun hackle tips
Legs: Two or three turns of dark dun hackle
This is your basic hour glass shaped ant pattern. The wings are
added becuase the cinnamon ants in Michigan do fly around during
the fall. The trout seem to prefer ants to other insects and will take
a flying ant pattern any time after the ants have formed a flight and
fallen to the water. I know this is true in other eastern states as well.
Matthew Idema
matthew.b.idema@ac.com
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Oriental Crowe Beetle
Materials:
Hook: Mustad 94840 or equivalent
Thread: Brown 6/0 or 8/0
Underbody: 1/8 inch wide strips Closed cell foam
Body/Legs: Peacock Herl
Shell: Rust colored deer or elk hair
Detailed instructions for tying the Oriental Crowe Beetle can be
found in the May/June 1994 issue of American Angler but here it is in a nutshell:
1. Wrap a thread base on the hook shank and coat with a coat
of flexament.
2. Tie in a strip of closed cell foam about 1/3 the length of the
hook behind the hook eye. Bind down the foam at the hook
bend and pull back to the original tie-in point. Pull the foam
back to the bend, tie down and trin the extra.
3. Tie in a clump of deer hair, tips first, behind the foam and trim
the tips.
4. Tie in 6 strands of peacock herl. Make sure about an inch of
the butt end remains as the butt ends of the herl will be used for
the legs. Coat the foam underbody with flexament.
5. Wrap the herl forward and pull the "legs" to either side at
appropriate intervals to form the legs.
6. Tie off the herl at the hook eye and wrap the thread back to the
front of the underbody using one or two turns of thread.
7. Pull the deer hair forward to form the shellback and tie off
immediately in front of the underbody and trim the excess hair
and whip finish.
8. Trim the legs to length and bend to the desired shape.
9. Coat the shellback with a couple of coats of flexement
Steve Davenport
sdavenpo@avana.net
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Grasshopper
hook; mustad ac9672 (a three x is what it should be )
thread; yellow
tail; red bucktail
hackle; brown
body; yellow poly dubbing
wing; turkey feather
legs; pheasant tail fibers (hackle can also be used)
head; yellow deer hair
tie in your thread use a heavy thread(size a) tie in a small clump of
red bucktail for the tail.tie in the hackle by the tip, dub in the body
with the poly dubbing for about 2/3 of the hook,strip off the hackle
fibers from one side of the hackle and palmer the hackle forward and
tie in at the end of the dubbing,clip the hackle off the top and sides
and trim the bottom to the same length of the hook gap.tie in the legs
(legs are made with three pheasant tail fibers knoted at the tip about
1/2 inch from the tip).take a clump of about 1/2 inch of the yellow
deer hair evenup the tips and tie in on the side of the hook and hold
in place wrap a couple of tight wraps,then repeat for the oposite side
of the hook.wrap thread in front of the hair as close to the hair as
possible to make the flared hair stand up then take a small clump of
hair clip the tips and tie in on top of the hook.pinch the hook shank
in back of the deer hair and pack the hair then whip finnish the fly.
hold some of the hair tips out of the way and clip the bottom and
sides to make a square,clip the face of the fly with the bottom of
the fly slightly back so the front face is angled,then clip the top
of the fly on an angle but leave a few strands overhanging the face.
then coat the face with head cement.the overhanging strands and
the cement coated face are meant to create a comotion when poped
under the surface
Dennis Veto
DVeto@mail7.corenet.net
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June Bug
Hook - Mustad 9672 - Size 10-12
Thread - Light brown
Under body - Light yellow yarn
Rib - olive thread
Shell case - bleached Caribou hair
Shell stripes - green died Elk hair
- clear crystal flash
Legs - bleached Caribou hair tied back
-Mike James
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letort Cricket
hook; mustad ac9672
thread; black
body; black dubbing
under wing; black goose quill
over wing; black deer hair
head ; black deer hair spun and cliped butts of the overwing
tie in the thread and wind it back to the hook bend then dub a body 3/4
the hook shank.clip a piece of the goose quill about 1/2 wide then fold it
in half and tie in to exstend just past the bend.take a clump of black
deer hair about 1/2 inch wide tie in and let the butts of deer hair flare to
form the head, hold the tips of the hair and try to stop it from flaring
forming the overwing ,whip finnish then trim the head and trim the
overwing so it is only on the top of the fly
Dennis Veto
Dveto@mail7.corenet.net
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Geehi Beetle
A popular fly with a lot of the older anglers on Monaro, the Geehi floats
well and is an excellent searching pattern. John Sautelle recommended itas
his favourite all-round pattern and advised it isexcellent when small
grasshoppers are falling on the water. It was first developed by Dr Keith
Zwar in 1947.
Hook: 12 - 16
Tail: 6-10 Golden Pheasant fibres
Body: Peacock herl with a ginger hackle palmered through it.
Hackle: Ginger.
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Red Tag
Originally developed as a grayling fly in England around 1850, the Red Tag
has followed trout around the world. It is a MUST for all anglers fishing
in Tasmania, and I can still remember a clear day at Arthur's Lake when a
large Brown trout had a beat that took him past me. I tried at least 8
different flies, when I remembered the Red Tag. As soon as he saw the fly
floating in his path, he tipped up and took without hesitation. On another
day in the Tassie highlands, I landed over 10 fish - all on the Red Tag.
Hook: 12 - 16
Tag: Bright post box red wool or equivalent
Body: Plump peacock herl
Hackle: Good fiery brown
David .Churches
davec@pcug.org.au
Australia
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Coffee Bean Beetle
(Adapted from Fly Tyer article by G.Boyd Pfeeiffer )
Hook:#10 94840
Body:coffee bean
Glue:fast-setting Epoxy (super glue)
Legs:brown v-rib
Paint:lacquer
Use triangular file to clean out groove in bottom of bean.
Glue in hook with a drop of super glue.
Glue a piece of leg material across belly of bug for mid legs.
Glue 4 more pieces in for the front and back legs.
Paint to suit.
(seal bottom with epoxy or paint)
Additional instructions
FIRST AND FOREMOST: It is NOT Allan's coffee-bean Beetle. It is G. Boyd
Pfeiffer's, as described in an entire article on coffee-bean beetles in the
Winter, 1996, FlyTyer magazine. REMEMBER: G. BOYD PFEIFFER.
1) how durable are they??
If completely coated with paint/epoxy, VERY durable.
2) What kind of cement do you use to "assemble" them on the hook?
How do you describe it without plagiarism? Give credit where credit is due:
G. BOYD PFEIFFER's instructions (greatly shortened are to first take a
triangular file and clean out the groove.
I then used Krazy Glue (or some other brand) to glue the hooks into the
groove. Then I used a slightly slower gelling glue to glue the legs on (5
minute glue requires a lot of patience, the Krazy Glue caused lots of
problems). Coat the entire bottom with glue then place the legs. If the
bean is too rounded, that is a lot of fun. VERY tedious!!
G. BOYD PFEIFFER suggests gluing three pieces of leg on in a criss-cross
fashion. I had great trouble with this, so I glued one long one across the
middle of the bean and then put one short one into each of the quadrants
remaining.
G. BOYD PFEIFFER used flex-floss or superfloss for legs. I used vinyl
ribbing material (V-rib). The flex-floss would probably work better.
G. BOYD PFEIFFER suggested using double-faced sticky tape to hold the beans
while working on them. My tying bench has a routed groove at the front. I
put double-face tape on the groove and it worked beautifully. I have now
found that the tape is permanently attached! :=(((
G. BOYD PFEIFFER also says to be sure to completely cover the entire bean,
both top and bottom, so I coated the bottom with the glue and the top with
flexible enamel (used for poppers, etc.).
Allen Fish
Afish@iquest.net
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Black Foam Ant
Hook: #14-20 Dry Fly Hook
Thread: black
Body: black foam - I used a sheet of "Scintilla" and cut long strips for
the body.
Hackle: Grizzly
1 Lay down a base of thread.
2 Tie in the foam at on end of the strip at a point about midway down the
hook shank.
3 Fold the foam over to make the abdomen and tie down. Tie it down over
the end of the foam at the mid-point of the shank.
4 Take a few wraps forward to make the "waist" of the ant and fold the foam
over to make the head of the ant. Tie it down back at the mid-point over
the waist you just tied.
5 Tie in a grizzly hackle with the stem pointing forward, make three wraps,
and tie it down. Tie off by bringing the thread up to the eye and whipping
a small knot under the foam head.
Notes: Practice to get the right proportion between the head, thorax
("waist"), and abdomen. The grizzly hackle can be clipped to make the ant
ride flush in the surface film.
Michael Valentiner,
MValentiner@Winternet.Com
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