Make your own free website on Tripod.com

1996 SPRING TERRESTRIAL SWAP



Photo's and scaning compliments of Alan FISH


BLACK BEETLE PATTERN BEETLE PLUS BLUE FOAM DAMSEL CINNAMON FLYING ANT (pic. not available) ORIENTAL CROWE BEETLE GRASSHOPPER JUNE BUG LETORT CRICKET GEEHI BEETLE RED TAG COFFEE BEAN BEETLE BLACK FOAM ANT

Black Beetle hook:Mustad 94840 #10-20 (these #12) thread:black shellback:black deer hair or goose quill hackle:black palmered and trimmed body:peacock herl(4 strands) or black fur after tieing in the thread tie in the deer hair with the butts pointing towards the hook eye.then tie in the hackle by the tip,tie in the peacock herl and wrap forward to form the body tie off and trim the extra.then palmer the hackle and tie off at the head then trim it all off from the top and sides leaving hackle only on the bottom, then trim the bottom hackle to the length of the hook gap.then fold over the deer hair to form the shellback tie off and trim off extra.then wrap a head with the thread ,then whip finnish.when applying the head cement to the thread I also apply it to the shellback for durability. Back to the top
Beetle Plus Hook; TMC 100 Daiichi 1180, Mustad AC94840,14-22 THREAD; same as body BODY; Black foam strip (also brown) HEAD: same as body TYING INSTRUCTIONS 1. Thread from eye into bend and back to above point of hook. 2. Tie in foam back to previous thread point (bend of hook). 3. Run thread back to just behind eye. 4. Fold foam over to tie down point (just behind eye). 5. Take a few turns of thread under foam behind eye and return thread to #4. 6. Cut foam to form head ( straight across & clip the sides). 7. Whip finish. 8. Place colored adhesive dot on back so you can see it in water, or use fabric paint. Simple, but oh, so effective! Aaron Hirschhorn afhirsch@aol.Com. Back to the top
Blue Foam Damsel HOOK; Mustad 94833 3xf dry or 94845 barbless* ( * used for these ) #12-10 Thread; Black 6/0 Flymaster plus Body; 2mm fly foam trimmed to 1/6" square and 1"long. ( 1" pieces of blue "live foam" cylinders may be subitiued but are more expensive) Hackle; dry fly quality white/cream saddle wrapped about 8-10 times. Tie in and finish head . Daniel D Williams ddwriter@pbmo.net This pattern is both simple and effective Back to the top
cinnamon flying ant
There is no picture available,The pattern was submited but the flies were mismailed. Hook: Mustad 94840 #16 or #18 Thread: Brown Dubbing: Any rust/cinnamon colored fur (rabbit, squirrel, etc.) Wings: Dark dun hackle tips Legs: Two or three turns of dark dun hackle This is your basic hour glass shaped ant pattern. The wings are added becuase the cinnamon ants in Michigan do fly around during the fall. The trout seem to prefer ants to other insects and will take a flying ant pattern any time after the ants have formed a flight and fallen to the water. I know this is true in other eastern states as well. Matthew Idema matthew.b.idema@ac.com Back to the top
Oriental Crowe Beetle Materials: Hook: Mustad 94840 or equivalent Thread: Brown 6/0 or 8/0 Underbody: 1/8 inch wide strips Closed cell foam Body/Legs: Peacock Herl Shell: Rust colored deer or elk hair Detailed instructions for tying the Oriental Crowe Beetle can be found in the May/June 1994 issue of American Angler but here it is in a nutshell: 1. Wrap a thread base on the hook shank and coat with a coat of flexament. 2. Tie in a strip of closed cell foam about 1/3 the length of the hook behind the hook eye. Bind down the foam at the hook bend and pull back to the original tie-in point. Pull the foam back to the bend, tie down and trin the extra. 3. Tie in a clump of deer hair, tips first, behind the foam and trim the tips. 4. Tie in 6 strands of peacock herl. Make sure about an inch of the butt end remains as the butt ends of the herl will be used for the legs. Coat the foam underbody with flexament. 5. Wrap the herl forward and pull the "legs" to either side at appropriate intervals to form the legs. 6. Tie off the herl at the hook eye and wrap the thread back to the front of the underbody using one or two turns of thread. 7. Pull the deer hair forward to form the shellback and tie off immediately in front of the underbody and trim the excess hair and whip finish. 8. Trim the legs to length and bend to the desired shape. 9. Coat the shellback with a couple of coats of flexement Steve Davenport sdavenpo@avana.net Back to the top
Grasshopper hook; mustad ac9672 (a three x is what it should be ) thread; yellow tail; red bucktail hackle; brown body; yellow poly dubbing wing; turkey feather legs; pheasant tail fibers (hackle can also be used) head; yellow deer hair tie in your thread use a heavy thread(size a) tie in a small clump of red bucktail for the tail.tie in the hackle by the tip, dub in the body with the poly dubbing for about 2/3 of the hook,strip off the hackle fibers from one side of the hackle and palmer the hackle forward and tie in at the end of the dubbing,clip the hackle off the top and sides and trim the bottom to the same length of the hook gap.tie in the legs (legs are made with three pheasant tail fibers knoted at the tip about 1/2 inch from the tip).take a clump of about 1/2 inch of the yellow deer hair evenup the tips and tie in on the side of the hook and hold in place wrap a couple of tight wraps,then repeat for the oposite side of the hook.wrap thread in front of the hair as close to the hair as possible to make the flared hair stand up then take a small clump of hair clip the tips and tie in on top of the hook.pinch the hook shank in back of the deer hair and pack the hair then whip finnish the fly. hold some of the hair tips out of the way and clip the bottom and sides to make a square,clip the face of the fly with the bottom of the fly slightly back so the front face is angled,then clip the top of the fly on an angle but leave a few strands overhanging the face. then coat the face with head cement.the overhanging strands and the cement coated face are meant to create a comotion when poped under the surface Dennis Veto DVeto@mail7.corenet.net Back to the top
June Bug Hook - Mustad 9672 - Size 10-12 Thread - Light brown Under body - Light yellow yarn Rib - olive thread Shell case - bleached Caribou hair Shell stripes - green died Elk hair - clear crystal flash Legs - bleached Caribou hair tied back -Mike James Back to the top
letort Cricket hook; mustad ac9672 thread; black body; black dubbing under wing; black goose quill over wing; black deer hair head ; black deer hair spun and cliped butts of the overwing tie in the thread and wind it back to the hook bend then dub a body 3/4 the hook shank.clip a piece of the goose quill about 1/2 wide then fold it in half and tie in to exstend just past the bend.take a clump of black deer hair about 1/2 inch wide tie in and let the butts of deer hair flare to form the head, hold the tips of the hair and try to stop it from flaring forming the overwing ,whip finnish then trim the head and trim the overwing so it is only on the top of the fly Dennis Veto Dveto@mail7.corenet.net Back to the top
Geehi Beetle A popular fly with a lot of the older anglers on Monaro, the Geehi floats well and is an excellent searching pattern. John Sautelle recommended itas his favourite all-round pattern and advised it isexcellent when small grasshoppers are falling on the water. It was first developed by Dr Keith Zwar in 1947. Hook: 12 - 16 Tail: 6-10 Golden Pheasant fibres Body: Peacock herl with a ginger hackle palmered through it. Hackle: Ginger. Back to the top
Red Tag Originally developed as a grayling fly in England around 1850, the Red Tag has followed trout around the world. It is a MUST for all anglers fishing in Tasmania, and I can still remember a clear day at Arthur's Lake when a large Brown trout had a beat that took him past me. I tried at least 8 different flies, when I remembered the Red Tag. As soon as he saw the fly floating in his path, he tipped up and took without hesitation. On another day in the Tassie highlands, I landed over 10 fish - all on the Red Tag. Hook: 12 - 16 Tag: Bright post box red wool or equivalent Body: Plump peacock herl Hackle: Good fiery brown David .Churches davec@pcug.org.au Australia Back to the top
Coffee Bean Beetle (Adapted from Fly Tyer article by G.Boyd Pfeeiffer ) Hook:#10 94840 Body:coffee bean Glue:fast-setting Epoxy (super glue) Legs:brown v-rib Paint:lacquer Use triangular file to clean out groove in bottom of bean. Glue in hook with a drop of super glue. Glue a piece of leg material across belly of bug for mid legs. Glue 4 more pieces in for the front and back legs. Paint to suit. (seal bottom with epoxy or paint) Additional instructions FIRST AND FOREMOST: It is NOT Allan's coffee-bean Beetle. It is G. Boyd Pfeiffer's, as described in an entire article on coffee-bean beetles in the Winter, 1996, FlyTyer magazine. REMEMBER: G. BOYD PFEIFFER. 1) how durable are they?? If completely coated with paint/epoxy, VERY durable. 2) What kind of cement do you use to "assemble" them on the hook? How do you describe it without plagiarism? Give credit where credit is due: G. BOYD PFEIFFER's instructions (greatly shortened are to first take a triangular file and clean out the groove. I then used Krazy Glue (or some other brand) to glue the hooks into the groove. Then I used a slightly slower gelling glue to glue the legs on (5 minute glue requires a lot of patience, the Krazy Glue caused lots of problems). Coat the entire bottom with glue then place the legs. If the bean is too rounded, that is a lot of fun. VERY tedious!! G. BOYD PFEIFFER suggests gluing three pieces of leg on in a criss-cross fashion. I had great trouble with this, so I glued one long one across the middle of the bean and then put one short one into each of the quadrants remaining. G. BOYD PFEIFFER used flex-floss or superfloss for legs. I used vinyl ribbing material (V-rib). The flex-floss would probably work better. G. BOYD PFEIFFER suggested using double-faced sticky tape to hold the beans while working on them. My tying bench has a routed groove at the front. I put double-face tape on the groove and it worked beautifully. I have now found that the tape is permanently attached! :=((( G. BOYD PFEIFFER also says to be sure to completely cover the entire bean, both top and bottom, so I coated the bottom with the glue and the top with flexible enamel (used for poppers, etc.). Allen Fish Afish@iquest.net Back to the top
Black Foam Ant Hook: #14-20 Dry Fly Hook Thread: black Body: black foam - I used a sheet of "Scintilla" and cut long strips for the body. Hackle: Grizzly 1 Lay down a base of thread. 2 Tie in the foam at on end of the strip at a point about midway down the hook shank. 3 Fold the foam over to make the abdomen and tie down. Tie it down over the end of the foam at the mid-point of the shank. 4 Take a few wraps forward to make the "waist" of the ant and fold the foam over to make the head of the ant. Tie it down back at the mid-point over the waist you just tied. 5 Tie in a grizzly hackle with the stem pointing forward, make three wraps, and tie it down. Tie off by bringing the thread up to the eye and whipping a small knot under the foam head. Notes: Practice to get the right proportion between the head, thorax ("waist"), and abdomen. The grizzly hackle can be clipped to make the ant ride flush in the surface film. Michael Valentiner, MValentiner@Winternet.Com Back to the top
.Return to main page